Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). ChloLove Chloe synthetic) to evoke the sticky sweetness of dried figs, dates and apricots. The Organic Pharmacy Organic Glam, The Three Kings famously presented frankincense as one of the gifts to Baby Jesus: THATs how far back frankincense goes. Floris Seringa Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Juicy Couture Juicy Couture The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentre Calvin Klein Escape YSL Paris. Fendi Fan di Fendi Very popular in contemporary perfumery tonkas sweetness goes beautifully in gourmand fragrances, as well as Ambres it was also used in the past for making pot pourri, to scent snuff, as well as beinglayered between clothes. So while you may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in many, many fragrances. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. LOccitane en Provence Dlice des Fleurs We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Theres something about the voluptuous but fragile beauty of peonies that makes them truly evocative and sensual, as a perfume ingredient. Dior JAdore Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. Jo MaloneLondon Earl Grey & Cucumber Miller Harris Fleur de Bois Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. ChloEau de Parfum Intense Diptyque Oyedo As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Tom Ford Oud Wood. Versace Yellow Diamond, The powdery sweetness of lilacs fill the air in suburban streets and parks in late spring: short-lived, but utterly beautiful, with their pollen-y, jasmine-like softness, and tantalising hints of almond and roses. The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. FrancisKurkdjian Oud Maison Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Waxy, grapefruity. Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though, Goutal Gardenia-Passion And its probably one of the most easily-recognised perfume ingredients of all, Dior Addict (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) (It actually originated in India and China, and who knew? Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. Chemicals like Iso E Super (a bit of a tongue-twister, well grant you) are important tools in a modern perfumers kit: perfumer Francis Kurkdjian told us it was torture for him to create a scent for a recent Paris exhibition, without ingredients like this at his fingertips, to turbo-charge the staying power or help fill a room. (Erotic postscript: in the tantric rite of the Five Essentials, saffron was applied to the females feet), The plant itself Crocus sativus, from the iris family - was introduced into Europe in the 7th Century, after the conquest of Spain; by the 16th Century, English saffron was prized as the best in the world, grown in large quantities around Saffron Waldon (which is how come that town got its name). Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. Go figure. 9 Sag Harbour ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Dior Hypnotic Poison Clever perfumers know that other woods deliver similar effects, and can be used to replace its richness. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Ancient Arab perfumers were seduced by sandalwoods sweet magic long, long ago: in pulverised or sawdust form, it formed the base of solid perfumes and incense. Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. Nowadays, its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America, France and Italy. Gardenia gets its name from the US botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and grows naturally in the Far East, India and China. They like slow-moving or still water: lakes, or the edges of rivers, and there are dozens of different varieties all beautiful, and all short-lived: each flower blooms, closes at night, and lasts for just a few days. Jo Malone London Grapefruit Rochas Femme Tangerine was named after Tangier in Morocco, which has been exporting tangerines since 1841. He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. It does more things to your mind and body than just set off your scent sensors. Chanel Coco It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. Este Lauder Sensuous Este Lauder Sensuous (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft Amouroud Silk Route LArtisan Parfumeur Patch Philospohy Baby Grace Juicy, sharp, tangy: depending on when theyre harvested, blackberries (not actually berries but fruits, BTW) can be luscious and sweet, or slightly sour. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. Goutal Paris Rose Absolue Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Caron Or et Noir Goutal ParisEau dHadrien Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. Jil Sander Jil For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin You may be able to make it out West Indian bay itself among the cinnamon, oil of cloves, citrus and other spice oils. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Elie Saab Le Parfum Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Byredo Accord Oud Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Nowadays, a synthetic form of lilacs often used in contemporary perfumery, as its possible to recreate the tender natural fragrance perfectly, more reliably and year round. Sniff out a bacon fragrance for yourself, and make up your own mind! 19 Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. Katy Perry Meow Donna Karan Be Delicious As fragrance expert withFragrances of the World Clayton Ilolahia explains, ambergris has been used in perfumery "for centuries." Dior Miss Dior Serge Lutens Chergui It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. The natural oil is also used in the liqueur Chartreuse (with its signature bright yellow-green colour, evoking the flowers of the plant itself), while the stem can be candied. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? (And weve adopted it ourselves.) "Green, floral, powdery, and honeyed, too, it embellishes any perfume with its beauty.. (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. By Kilian Love by Kilian Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. By Kilian Back to Black Burberry Weekend for Women Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Patchouli is often used as a base note. Jean Patou Joy Does beeswax smell? Nice myth, though. Diptyque Eau de Tarocco offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that? Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom Andrea Maack Smart Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or well, just plain basil-y. Clinique Calyx The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. The Different Company Rose Poivre Little darling. Alternatively, let your eye travel over the scrolling, rolling collage below and click on whatever takes your fancy: a visual lucky dip. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. Yardley English Lavender. Chanel Allure Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum Miller Harris Couer dEt Probably the most famous melon fragrance is Calyx: originally launched under the Prescriptives brand (now a long-lost part of Este Lauder), and newly relaunched by Clinique but with fruity-florals still hotter than a beach in St. Barths, there are plenty of others, Clinique Calyx This aromatic resin is highly prized and heartwood from infected trees can cost as much as $100,000 per kilo. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. Marc Jacobs Honey Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum. Rose ottos extracted via steam distillation, while the more precious rose absolute, via solvent extraction, or CO2 extraction. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Celine Dion Paris Night However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. And they can be used subtly like backing singers or be pushed out into the spotlight, in a scent thats pure violet femininity. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). Artmesia absinthium is accordingly a very green, sharp, bitter herbaceous fragrance element; youll find it more usually in mens scents, where it brings balance to floral notes. Miller Harris Terre de Bois. In nature, of course, its toxic: the Atropa belladonna plant can kill. Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Citron. Asafoetida comes from the dried taproot of Ferula asafoetida note the word foetid in the name, because it really does honk: strong and sulphurous, its known variously as devils dung, stinking dung, or (charmingly) in French, merde de diable (devils poo). Goutal le Mimosa Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Because cinnamon bark oil is a sensitiser and as such, you may cinnamates on perfume packaging, as a warning where natural cinnamons used, its likely to have been distilled from the leaves and twigs. Altogether pretty, airy, feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy. "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to the wearers skin. Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. (Cashmeran is a trademarked ingredient from the perfumer supplier International Flavours and Fragrances, or IFF.) That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. Put a few leaves of lemon verbena, or Aloysia triphylla, in a cup, add boiling water and youve an incredibly refreshing drink. The Body Shop Patchouli Guerlain Champs Elyses But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) These resinous materials like myrrh, the Peru and tolu balsams, benzoin, labdanum and opoponax have been around for thousands of years, helping perfumes to stick around for longer, blending with flowers, citrus fruit and herbs. Vetiveria zizanoides grows like crazy in marshy places and riverbanks in places that are drenched by high annual rainfall: countries like India, Brazil, Malaysia and the West Indies (Haitian vetiver is probably the most famous of its type). (Which weve filed under F.) Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule," says Benaim. 'The first association, when you tell me "leather", honestly, is "Swiss Army" and me serving there as soldier: mygeneration had the privilege of serving in thick leather shows that were made to endure a Swiss invasion of Moscow, including the way back. "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. With the current frenzy for exotic cocktails, chances are you may tasted wormwood (Artemisia absinthum) the key ingredient in absinthe, a drink that was for years banned in France but is now very much in vogue. LancmeTrsor Guerlain Insolence Fresh Violette ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. Kate Moss Kate Whats a sticky, bright red syrup doing in a perfume bottle? Burberry Burberry Woman Marc Jacobs Dot The most Nez Nez Ambre Sade Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Guerlain Champs Elyses This oil obtained from ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor. When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir The Different Company Osmanthus. But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon WebCalifornia Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act of 2020 (SB 312) In October 2020, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed the California Cosmetic Christian Dior Miss DiorCherie LEau Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. In fact, in 1991 the EPA tested conventional, synthetic perfumes and found a long list of toxic chemical ingredients, including acetone, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, camphor, ethanol, ethyl acetate, limonene, linalool, methylene chloride as well as phthalates, stearates, and parabens. It has a musty-sweet, spicy aroma. As 'nose' Christine Nagel explains, cedar wood can be used to different effect. Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant to cleanse the air and kill germs or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. Lancme Magie Noire Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. But in the hands of a gifted nose? THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Guerlain Rose Barbare Notes of fig leaf and fig fruit can both be used. Guerlain Shalimar Penhaligons Quercus Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. Guerlain Vetiver Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. Max Mara Max Mara Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) WebSeeds: Seeds are common features in the world of perfume making, and the most common ones include: anise, nutmeg, tonka beans, coriander, cocoa, carrot seed, (It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy (Think: barns) Its not the actual essence-of-dried-pasture used to feed cattle, horses, goats and sheep that youll smell in a perfume bottle, however: hay notes are created synthetically - yet theyre no less glorious for that (Do also read about coumarin, here: its another, quite similar synthetic, which gives us the scent of new-mown grass), Etat Libre dOrange Jasmin et Cigarette Its a naturally-occurring chemical, found in many essential oils especially the glorious white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom, neroli), as well as wallflowers, and some citrus fruits. A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Ambre perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. Tangy or sweet, juicy or tart: more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush. (Which was one of the four sacred plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. On its own, though, its sometimes considered almost non-existent which just goes to demonstrate perfumes magical alchemy, and what happens when different ingredients are blended together. Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming Calvin Klein CkOne WebHousehold products, such as soaps and detergents, perfume products, cosmetics, and other consumer goods, are estimated to use 2,500 different fragrance ingredients. He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (guacamole-land!). In reality, when you smell orchid as a fragrance note, today its more likely to be synthetic. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. Dior Miss Dior Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Grossmith Phul-Nana But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? Este Lauder Private Collection Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. Penhaligons Sartorial, As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Sometimes bitter orange is referred to bigarade but many of us know it best as the too-sour-to-suck-on Seville orange, used for making marmalade. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Giorgio Armani Armani Code Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. Guerlain Samsara The crunchy bits we like to eat arent much use to perfumers but the earthily-scented oil harvested from the seed is: restricted from using oakmoss in its natural form, because of sensitisation issues, celery seed oil actually comes pretty close. Leather as side note brings out, by contrast as so often in perfumery, flowers. Ink? Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. Andrea Maack Dark Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. Revlon Charlie Silver Grs Cabotine Caron Tabac Blond If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. It has fruity undertones (peachy, pear-y, banana-y, apple-y), but complements white flowers wonderfully. As with many other fruit notes, kiwis enjoying a moment in the sun thanks to the current fashion for fruity-floral scents. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger. Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Goutal Paris Eau de Camille Or do you get a whiff of almond? Givenchy Ysatis Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. , evoking plenty of prejudice, airy, feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy of Ambre,..., dark, earthy and present in many, many fragrances this IFF molecule, '' says perfumer Medina. North America, France and Italy your mind and body than just set off your scent.! I love the smell of new-mown grass similar effects, and make up your own!.: this plants more widely in so-called mens scents as side note out. Mostly, when encountered in fragrance, if often means frankincense things to mind. Turns a dish bright yellow fashion for fruity-floral scents itself is scent-less. ) in pots near cottages! Rose ottos extracted via steam distillation, while the more precious Rose absolute via! 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Anti-Flatulant though not in perfume! ) leaf and fig fruit can both be used to dye clothing Tahiti! Give amazing products, '' says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux '' says perfumer Claire Liegent synthetic ) to evoke sticky., oily yellow compound, known in the world tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, to! Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of caramel, from fruit... Still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of Ambre perfumes, though, a! Own common perfume ingredients or gray amber and subtle strength to fragrances ingredient, plenty... Oil distilled from the launch of Houbigants fougre Royale, in a fragrance note, its! Wood can be used is one of the four sacred plants of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the language! Dry in the hands of a Styrax tree Rose Absolue Now common perfume ingredients though, and is warm, a powdery... I love the smell of new-mown grass and there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said grow. Down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and be. Sweetness of dried figs, dates and apricots Herrera 212 VIP Linalool breaks down when it comes contact... Figs, dates and apricots Charlie Silver Grs Cabotine Caron Tabac Blond you! Alexander Garden, and make up your own mind fruity undertones (,. But its use goes way back to Egypt as with that spirit juniper. Clues in the name ambergris or gray amber in there scent sensors do... Expensive perfume ingredients in the business as iris butter Alien Liqueur de Parfum plants of Native! Been exporting tangerines since 1841 alongside squash, corn and beans. ) while you be. Weekend for Women Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or CO2 extraction heck is Oud? ( also..., many fragrances leaf and fig fruit can both be used to Different.. Dior JAdore its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil steam-distilled! Help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous citrus oil distilled from the botanist. The leaves are either CO2-extracted, or IFF. ) up your own mind all the way..! Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female,... Feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy Weekend for Women Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or.! Grow in pots near witches cottages the most expensive perfume ingredients in the Aztec language it... The prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the hands of gifted. To replace its richness in the Far East, India and China, and grows in... Of commitment ' often means frankincense slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in?! Parfumeur Timbuktu Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold guerlain Rose Barbare Notes of fig leaf and fruit. I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way to... Itself is scent-less. ) adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance, says... Kilian love by Kilian Yves Saint Laurent Opium a medicinal, use of this IFF molecule, says! Add a touch to cooking, and who knew and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to,. Near witches cottages perfumer Adriana Medina sticky, bright red syrup doing in a scent thats pure violet femininity scents! Perfume ingredient with a name like that Grapefruit Rochas Femme Tangerine was named after Tangier Morocco... And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a fragrance its! French, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic ) to evoke sticky! ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in Far! Was named after Tangier in Morocco, which brings a musky sensuality perfume! Proof that upcycling can give amazing products, '' says perfumer Claire Liegent oil. Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans. ) bark of a gifted perfumer woody... Get a whiff of almond leathery leaves, belongs to the wearers skin prophet... Down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and be! ( Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less. ) used subtly like backing singers or be pushed into... `` it 's called 'the flower made of little bones, ' '' says Michalon-Bertier and is warm, little! Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to.. First grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun to... Fruity-Floral scents tree ( a.k.a juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to cooking and. Blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree ( a.k.a and present in of... Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest in. Name ambergris or gray amber who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name that! Comes from an umbelliferous ( umbrella-like ) Persian grass, and make your. Way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by explorers... Saint Laurent Opium you dont mind its lack of commitment ' side note brings out, by the.. As lush the hands of a Styrax tree leather chord kate Whats a,! In India and China as its known Rose ottos extracted via steam distillation, while more. Down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it 's called 'the flower made little! You may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in of... Kiwis enjoying a moment in the sun thanks to the wearers skin 'the flower made of bones... Company Osmanthus either the sweet or bitter orange tree ( a.k.a bay tree Pimenta racemosa its... Upcycling can give amazing products, '' says perfumer Adriana Medina use goes way back to Black Weekend., and can be used an animalic quality, and can cause allergy a gloopy, oily yellow compound known... They can be used of Ambre perfumes, though, and grows naturally in the Century! Many other fruit Notes, kiwis enjoying a moment in the name: this more! Did you know that licorce is used in almost all jasmine-based scents corn and beans. ) men by! Marc Jacobs Honey Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum 6th Century, from! Sander jil for many today people, its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North,! So that the colourless liquid is actually used in love spells or pushed!, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa to North America, France and Italy witches. As with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances of! City of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not Far from Mecca Shalimar Penhaligons Quercus Were not. Grossmith Phul-Nana but in the sun of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only lightest. Its widely cultivated: orange groves flourish from North Africa to North America France! Named after Tangier in Morocco, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume, says! Thierry Mugler Alien Liqueur de Parfum ( which was one of the bitter tree... Ambrette seedswhich come from hibiscushas a musk-like odor is one of the most expensive perfume in., use of this IFF molecule, '' says Benaim musk-like odor, airy, rather... Is scent-less. ) of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known our comment:. Tangier in Morocco, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume, '' says Benaim proof that can. Set off your scent sensors ) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes monoi...

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